Jim Moore / October 5, 2026
KEUKA LAKE — There is a brief, magic window in late September and early October when the Finger Lakes seem to exhale. The summer crowds have thinned out just enough, the afternoon sun sits low and golden over the water, and the hillsides start showing off their annual metamorphosis. Last Saturday was one of those windows.
We took full advantage of that opportunity this weekend, packing up early for an autumn loop around Keuka Lake.
The trip started from our home base in Hornell, and honestly, the drive itself was one of the highlights of the day. Heading east along Interstate 86, the hills were already ablaze with brilliant reds and deep burnished oranges, framed against a nearly cloudless blue sky. But the real show began once we veered off onto Bean Station Road. Cutting through the countryside as it climbs toward the western ridge above Hammondsport, the narrow road felt like driving through a tunnel of fiery sugar maples and golden oaks. Every turn offered a quick, breathtaking frame of countryside that invited us to slow down and admire the scenery.
Our first formal destination was Heron Hill Winery (one of our favorite Keuka Lake wineries), perched high on the hill off Route 76. Sitting in the gorgeous tasting roome with a glass in hand, looking down across the vineyards toward the blue expanse of Keuka Lake, you quickly remember why this spot is famous. The valley below was patched with color, though less brilliant than on the drive over, and the sun sparkled on the water. It was crisp, quiet, and completely unhurried.
From Heron Hill, we wound our way around the top of the lake toward Penn Yan to catch the festivities at The Windmill Farm and Craft Market.
The Windmill is a Saturday staple around here, but during their Fall Harvest Festival, the energy shifts into high gear. The air was thick with the scent of fresh cider donuts, kettle corn, and smoked meats. Happy families and hand-holding couples walked along the gravel pathways and browsed rows of fresh pumpkins, handmade woodwork, and local preserves. We too strolled along weaving from building to building, and took in the bustling, down-home atmosphere that makes Yates County feel so grounded.
To round out the afternoon, we headed back down the west side of the lake to Abandon Brewing Company.
If you haven’t spent a clear fall afternoon on the lawn at Abandon, put it at the top of your list. Set in a restored 1800s barn surrounded by apple orchards, the brewery offers a sweeping view of the lake from the top of the hill. We grabbed a couple of fresh craft refreshments and enjoyed an afternoon of people and dog watching.
The outdoor patio was a lively mix of locals, day-trippers, and several happy dogs of every shape and size, all soaking up the last warm rays of the sun. One giant boxer mix was busy greeting each passer-by and enjoying stray head scratches, while an alert long haired herding dog stayed vigilant by the patio door. Between the conversation, the laughing groups enjoy the libations, and the tails wagging around every picnic table, it felt like the ultimate slice of Finger Lakes life.
